Sanibel and Captiva Today: Two Years After Ian

Sanibel and Captiva Today: Two Years After Ian

With the approaching two-year anniversary of the devastation wrought on Sanibel and Captiva Islands by Hurricane Ian, it seemed like a good idea to spend a week exploring the islands to see, first-hand, how the recovery efforts are progressing.

Our home base for the week was the delightful Driftwood Inn which provided everything we needed for a comfortable stay including a pair of trusty bikes that served as our go-to means of transportation for the week.

To see more about the Driftwood, see our feature article here: In the Heart of Sanibel: The Driftwood Inn

In this post, you'll be able to join us as we check out how Sanibel and Captiva Islands are doing today, two years after Hurricane Ian (August 2024.)

The driftwood inn sanibel


Sanibel is Waiting for You

Our biggest takeaway from our week in paradise was that, though a little rough around the edges and with still much more work to be done, Sanibel is as beautiful as ever.

 There is no need to wait.  If you have a history with Sanibel and Captiva, don't miss the present opportunity to see the islands, now, in the midst of their renewal and play a vital role in their recovery.

Though many of the larger condominium and resort complexes are not quite ready, there are still plenty of accommodation options available.

We made the trip over the causeway in early August 2024; taking in all the sights and sounds while soaking up the sun as we visited many of the places that have meant so much to us over the years.

Early in the week we covered the entire east end of Sanibel Island.

Mid-week we drove out to explore Captiva and Redfish Pass.

Then we finished out the week by biking out Middle Gulf to Casa Ybel and then up to and through Ding Darling Preserve and then finally back to the Driftwood.

We covered a lot of ground which makes for a very long post, so we've got a table of contents you can use to jump to what you are most interested in seeing.

The Day After Debby

As it turned out, we arrived on Sanibel the day after Tropical Storm Debby came surging up through the Gulf of Mexico, and although there was a lot of standing water everywhere, there was, thankfully, no significant impact.

One place that did get affected was Ocean's Reach. Their office got flooded so they had to temporarily move their operations up to the second level.  More on Ocean's Reach down below.

We arrived late in the day on Monday, so we checked in and then hopped on a couple of the bikes Driftwood provides and headed to Wickies for dinner.

Wickies Lighthouse Restaurant

Wickies is a new restaurant that is a collaboration between the owners of The Mad Hatter and The Island Cow.

It opened in April of 2024 in the space that, for many years, was occupied by The Lighthouse Cafe.

Wickies Lighthouse restaurant sanibel

Inside Wickies

smoked salmon flatbread wickies lighthouse sanibel

The smoked salmon flatbread - delicious! 

The food was fantastic, and the service was spectacular!

But the best part was the conversation with new friends and fellow Sanibel fanatics Katie, Mack, and Keith & Sue.

scallops risotto wickies lighthouse sanibel

One of the specials: Scallops with Coconut Risotto

wickies lighthouse bar sanibel

Conversing with new friends at Wickies Bar

Jerry's Foods

After dinner, we stopped at Jerry's to grab some coffee and supplies for the week.

Jerry's Sanibel Island 2024

Mucky Duck Sunset

Then we drove out to Captiva to catch the sunset at the Mucky Duck, known for the being the best place to watch sunsets on the islands.

mucky duck sunset

Sunset Afterglow from the Mucky Duck.  No filter - this is the real thing!

Biking to the Lighthouse

For our first full day on the islands, we started by biking to the Lighthouse.

Tuttle's Sea Horse Shell Shop

On the way back from the Lighthouse, we stopped in at one of our favorite gift shops.

tuttles sea horse shell shop sanibel

As we opened the door, we were greeted by the one and only, Bob Tuttle.

Originally from Detroit, Bob and his wife Pauline came to Sanibel in the early 70s following his service in the United States Air Force.

When I asked Bob if he ever thought about not coming back and starting again, he said, "Maybe for a minute. But not really.  This is our home. This is where we raised our family. "

His optimism and determination are remarkable!

Like so many of the Sanibel business owners, not only was their business wiped out by Ian, but their home as well.  

When we first walked in, my initial impression was that the shop looked just like I remembered it from before Ian.

But on closer inspection, it was evident that Tuttle's used the setback as an opportunity to remodel the wall display structure and upgrade much of the merchandise.  

I especially appreciate the selection of maps mounted on various types of wood and canvas - very cool!

And there is a really nice selection of jewelry; handmade by Pauline.

You will also find that Tuttle's has expanded their hours of operation and are open until 9pm, or as Bob says, "We'll stay open as long as there are people here."

From Tuttle's we set a course for The Lighthouse Cafe but took a brief detour through the Marina.

Sanibel Marina and Gramma Dot's

The Marina looks great, and Gramma Dot's has been open since February of this year.

The Lighthouse Cafe 

"Memories and Tradition"

lighthouse cafe sanibel new location 2024

One of our traditional first stops anytime we return to Sanibel is The Lighthouse Cafe.  

And we can happily say that The Lighthouse Cafe is still one of those must-visit destinations when visiting Sanibel Island.


lighthouse cafe sanibel open new location 2024

On this visit, we had the privilege of sitting down and talking with Dan Billheimer, the owner of The Lighthouse Cafe.   Within the next few days, we will be publishing a separate article focused on Dan's report, so be on the lookout for that article soon.

lighthouse cafe sanibel open new location

New location.  Same great menu. And the familiar surroundings feel good!

But the bottom line is that The Lighthouse Cafe is back!

The official reopening was April 26th, 2024 at its new location on Periwinkle just west of Baily Road.

Though it's a new location, it has the same great menu and the same great people!

Dairy Queen

One of the saddest things to report is that the Dairy Queen is no more.  

The beloved Sanibel DQ will not be back.

dairy queen sanibel island not open

I could really go for a Blizzard right now, but alas the DQ is no more.  August 2024

The Lazy Flamingo

The Lazy Flamingo on Periwinkle was the very first restaurant we experienced on our very first stay on Sanibel many years ago.

I remember that it was in the midst of College Basketball tournament season, and the games were being shown on the Lazy Flamingo televisions, and the place was packed!

We had grouper sandwiches and watched our home team, cheering them on to victory along with a crowd of fellow Buckeye and Sanibel fans.

Many great memories made at the Lazy Flamingo!

I hope they are back soon!

Lazy Flamingo sanibel 2024

The Lazy Flamingo on Periwinkle - August 2024

Sanibel Island Beach Resort

One of the Resorts that does appear to be back and operating at full strength is Sanibel Island Beach Resort at Donax and Middle Gulf.

sanibel island beach resort

Entrance to Sanibel Island Beach Resort - August 2024

Breezers pool bar sanibel island beach resort

Breezer's beach-front pool bar at Sanibel Island Beach Resort

BRGR Sanibel Island Beach resort

BRGR Kitchen & Bar at Sanibel Island Beach Resort

breezers beachfront bar sanibel island beach resort

A view from the Breezer's bar

Traders

For dinner we hopped back on our bikes and headed to Traders - just a 5-minute bike ride away from The Driftwood Inn.

Traders sanibel open 2024

We pulled Drew and Patrick away from their posts inside for a quick photo 

Traders was one of the first restaurants to reopen following Ian looks just as we remembered it.

We were welcomed in by Patrick at the front desk and proceeded to sit down to a thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing conversation at the bar with Drew.

Traders restaurant sanibel open

Traders is always a treat!

traders bar sanibel open 2024

Drew in command behind the bar

We stopped into the gift shop after dinner and talked with Lisa who was managing the shop.  She wanted us to let you know that the only thing they are missing is you!

Traders Gift Shop

Captiva

The next day we drove out to Captiva and spent the day on the beach up near South Seas and Redfish Pass.

redfish pass captiva island
redfish pass captiva island south seas resort

Public Parking

Just a heads up that the public parking lot just north of the entrance to South Seas uses an online payment system that required me to install an app on my phone to make the payment.

The day we were there parking was $25 for two hours or $40 for the day.

Walk to Redfish Pass

RC Otters

RC Otter's is always a fun place to eat and they frequently have live music.

RC Otters Captiva Island open 2024

The Bubble Room

The Bubble Room is not yet open.

the bubble room captiva rebuilding

And although there is a sign out front that says they're reopening in 2024, and there was work being done on the roof, the Bubble Room looks like it has a ways to go before reopening.

the bubble room captiva 2024
the bubble room captiva 2024

Boops by the Bubble Room

Even though the beloved Bubble Room on Captiva is not open yet, Boops, the ice cream shop next door, is!
Enjoy Famous Bubble Room Cakes, Illy Brand Coffee, Love Boat Ice Cream, pastries, doughnuts and Old Fashioned Soda Fountain!

the bubble room boops ice cream shop open captiva 2024

Check out our post What Restaurants are Open on Sanibel after Hurricane Ian? (2024) to see what restaurants have reopened since Ian.

The Crow's Nest

At Tween Waters on Captiva, in addition to the resort, Old Captiva house and the Shipyard are two great dining options, but the newest addition is The Crow's Nest.

The Crow's Nest provides up-scale, fine dining with spectacular views of the Gulf of Mexico.

crow's nest tween waters captiva

Gorgeous sunset views from inside The Crow's Nest

tween waters crow's nest beach captiva

A view of Tween Waters and The Crow's Nest from the beach

To end the week, we got more ambitious and took off on our bikes from the Driftwood and headed west.

Starting from the Driftwood we rolled along Middle Gulf Road to check in on the Sundial Resort and the Sand Dollar Condos where we had stayed many times. 

Sundial Beach Resort and Spa

Sundial looks fabulous inside and out!

As we walked through the front door and into the lobby, we ran into General Manager, Becky Miller, who gave us a brief tour highlighting all the progress that has been made.

Sundial Beach resort sanibel

Looking out at the Gulf from the 3rd Floor Balcony

Sundial beach resort sanibel open 2024

Sundial is Looking Great! August 2024

sea breeze cafe sundial sanibel

Sundial's Sea Breeze Cafe

Shima Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar sundial sanibel

Shima Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar

The Sanddollar Condominiums

At the Sanddollar, stone and masonry work were actively underway and there were a team of technicians that appeared to be working on installing new elevators.

From the outside, the restoration project appears to be nearly complete.

Algiers Preserve

From Sandollar, we continued west on Middle Gulf and then took the bike path through Algiers Preserve to get to Ocean's Reach.

Ocean's Reach

Ocean's reach resort open 2024

When we got to Ocean’s Reach, we saw that the office had been flooded from Tropical Storm Debby, so we headed upstairs to the temporary offices and caught the General Manager, Andy just as he was headed out the door.

Ocean's reach sanibel open 2024

 Andy gave us a quick update to let us know they were on target to reopen November 30, 2024.

Ocean's Reach contracted with Clermont Properties for the restoration project and have been very happy with their work.

The exterior restoration work on all 64 units is complete and they are now working on landscaping while interior finish work is progressing, according to Andy, "at an excellent pace."

Casa Ybel

Earlier in the week, we had taken some pictures of the entrance to Casa Ybel,  but needed some from the other side. So, when we left the Ocean's Reach office, we walked out and up the beach to get a view from the Gulf-facing side of Casa Ybel.

Thistle Lodge Sanibel Casa Ybel 2024
Thistle Lodge Sanibel Casa Ybel 2024

Casa Ybel - August 2024

 Casa Ybel Sanibel 2024

a view from the beach

 Casa Ybel Sanibel 2024

The entrance to Casa Ybel - August 2024

Coconuts tiki bar  Casa Ybel Sanibel 2024

The view from where Coconut's Tiki Bar used to stand

Bailey's General Store

It is astonishing to see what once was Bailey's, and all of Bailey's corner, completely gone.

The incredibly good news is that they will be rebuilding! The targeted open date is the end of 2026.

Doc Ford's

No trip to Sanibel is complete without at least one trip to Doc Ford's for some Buffalo Shrimp.

Doc Ford's Sanibel

Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge

From Doc Ford's we headed out Sanibel Captiva Road for Ding Darling's Wildlife Refuge.

Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge
Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge lookout
Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge
Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge lookout

Peaceful and serene, one of the highlights was getting to see a group of Manatee near the observation tower frolicking about.

On this day we definitely had bitten off more than we could chew.

By the time we got all the way through Ding Darling, biking in the middle of the hottest part of the day, we weren't sure we were going to be able to make it all the way back to the Driftwood.

our bike route from the Driftwood out to and through Ding Darling

But just as we thought we couldn't pedal a single pedal more, we had vision of an oasis up ahead.

Were we hallucinating?  Was it just a mirage?

No! It was Rosalita's up ahead in the old Doc Ford's location on Rabbit Road.

Rosalita's Cantina

Rosalitas restaurant sanibel island

Revived and refreshed, thanks to Rosalita's, we headed back home to the Driftwood.

This was our first time at Rosalita's and the Enchiladas and Chimichangas were delicious.

And the complimentary chips and salsa are awesome!

Island Cow

As we ended our week, a few of the last photos we captured were of the Island Cow sign and the place it used to stand.

Island Cow 2024
island cow rebuilding 2024

Check out our post What Restaurants are Open on Sanibel after Hurricane Ian? (2024) to see what restaurants have reopened since Ian.

The Secret Mermaid Mailbox!

Sanibel is a magical place like no other. Did you know that there is a secret mermaid mailbox hidden on the island? 

Yes! It is a fun scavenger hunt with clues to find the secret location!

I didn't know about the mermaid mailbox until I saw a Facebook post with the clues. I was so excited I made hubby go find it with me before we went to dinner. He is such a trooper!

We followed the clues and found it! I can't tell you how much that made my day.

The mailbox is full of treasures. Pick one to keep and replace with your own gift to bless someone else.

Sanibel Island Mermaid mailbox
Sanibel Island Mermaid mailbox sea shell


Sanibel is a place like no other. Did we already say that?  
It is #sanibelstrong, and is on its way back to the place we all know and love. 
We will keep coming back to Sanibel, our favorite place in the world. 💗

The only thing missing is YOU!

This article was sponsored, in part, by The Driftwood Inn.


In the Heart of Sanibel: The Driftwood Inn

In the Heart of Sanibel: The Driftwood Inn

Relax, unwind, and drift away

    

Sanibel Island is one of our favorite places on earth and over the past 12 years, we’ve been so fortunate to have been able to make numerous trips to the island.

Every time we go there, we find something new that deepens our affection for this magical island.

During our most recent stay on Sanibel, our newest experience was staying for the first time at The Driftwood Inn.

Our two-bedroom cottage was exactly what we needed for our home base as we set out to explore the Island and see first-hand how recovery and restoration efforts have progressed over the past two years since Hurricane Ian devastated the area.

Our article on what we discovered during our week-long exploration can be found here: Sanibel and Captiva Today: Two Years After Ian

Mucky Duck sunset captiva

A view from the Mucky Duck of the sunset afterglow 

After each day of biking, shelling, shopping, dining, and working, The Driftwood Inn provided us with a most comfortable place to relax, unwind, and drift away.

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Island

Clean

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Comfortable

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Spacious

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Cozy

Take a quick peek inside

Close to Everything

The Driftwood Inn's location is ideal with close proximity to the beach, restaurants, and shopping.

A 5-Minute Walk To the Beach

The Driftwood Inn, located right in the heart of Sanibel on Donax Street, just north of Middle Gulf Road is just a short walk from the beach.

Sanibel island beach Donax
Sanibel Island beach donax

Or, a  2-Minute Bike Ride

Family Owned and Operated

Originally from the great state of Maine, Mark and Lindsay Badger now call Sanibel home.

Mark and Lindsay Badger Sanibel

They had visited Sanibel many times over the years and had fallen in love with the island as, like so many of us, the ride over the causeway transported them into another world full of contentment and happiness.

Then, in 2022, upon selling their family business, they had the freedom to choose where to live and Sanibel just seemed to them like an idyllic place to raise a family.

As Lindsay explained, "It was just such a different way of life than the Northeast and the fast-paced, always-in-a-rush type of environment.

We don't get into a car when we are on Sanibel.  We can bike everywhere or just walk with the stroller."

And as a mom, Lindsey is also very excited about the opportunities Sanibel will provide for her children starting this fall as her son is enrolled in CECI - Childrens Education Center of the Islands.

As Lindsay says, "Just growing up on an on an island in a place like Sanibel, how could it get any better?"

In May of this year, just a few short months ago, they took ownership of the Driftwood Inn and have big plans in the works to make it better and more beautiful than ever.

Newly Renovated with Amenities to the Max

Mark and Lindsay are not just the owners, they are managing and operating the Driftwood themselves with a focus on unique and personalized service.

The four Driftwood Inn cottages are contained within two separate duplexes.

Each of the four units has two comfortable and well-appointed bedrooms, two bathrooms, a spacious living area, a fully equipped kitchen, and a screened lanai. 

Clean, comfortable, and functional, our cottage became our home away from home as we spent the week exploring the recovery progress of the island.

The Driftwood Inn also provides each unit with a beach cart, chairs, umbrella and a variety of beach toys so there is no need to pack anything for your day at the beach.

Each duplex also shares a laundry room with a washer and dryer.

Guests also have a fleet of really nice 3-speed bicycles available to make it a breeze to get around the island.

And for those of you who love a cook-out, there are also two outdoor grills available.

Tiki Huts

Tiki huts Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Enjoy a leisurely picnic under your very own Tiki Hut

Sanibel shells

Or relax and sort your beach treasures

Adding to the tropical atmosphere are the exotic tiki huts.

They are perfect for an outdoor picnic, relaxing with a favorite beverage, and especially for sorting all the amazing shells you'll bring back from the beach!

Stay One Night or Many

If you only have a few days, no problem!  The Driftwood can accommodate nightly, weekly, and monthly stays.

Pet Friendly

At the Driftwood pets are welcome.

Personal Touch

Are you celebrating a special occasion?

Is there some way that the Driftwood can assist to make everything easier for you?

Do you have any special needs or requests?

Just ask, and Mark and Lindsay will be happy to help get you everything you need.

Whether it's a grocery pickup so that you have a stocked fridge upon arrival, or special decorations, just ask, and they will do their very best to make it happen.

While most of the larger resorts on the island are making great progress on the recovery effort, you may find that many are not ready for guests quite yet.

However, there are still some great options right now that have a place for you and will make you feel very welcome.

If you’ve been wanting to get back to Sanibel, definitely take a look at the smaller inns and cottages like The Driftwood.

Sanibel shell driftwood inn
sanibel shell driftwood inn

So fun to find these shells with a personal message near the front door of our cottage upon arrival.

A Great Remote Work Location

Since we were on the Island to work, I can't help but recommend considering the Driftwood for more than vacations and holidays.

For those fortunate enough to be able to work from anywhere that has internet connectivity, you should definitely think about setting up shop at the Driftwood.

The Driftwood's reliable wifi access to high-speed internet enabled us to stay connected with our clients and work throughout the week without missing a beat. 

Tropical Paradise Retreat

The Driftwood also provides a great setting for anyone considering any type of small group or personal retreat.

Or, perhaps you're a small business looking for a unique location for a company retreat, brainstorming, or team building event.  

The Driftwood makes for a really nice base to operate out of while leveraging everything else the island has to offer to help cultivate a vision of your future.

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

A view of the dining area before we loaded it up with laptops, cameras, notebooks, and other work essentials  

Multi-family Get Togethers

The other thing that I kept thinking about while we were there is how the Driftwood makes for the perfect setting for small family reunions or other multi-family gatherings.

We hope to be back with our children and grandchildren in the near future.

Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Biking Across Sanibel

During our stay, we took full advantage of Driftwood's complimentary bikes.

We biked all over the Island.

From The Lighthouse all the way out through Ding Darling and back!

To see what we discovered during our week-long exploration check our article here: Sanibel and Captiva Today: Two Years After Ian

bicycles  Driftwood Inn Sanibel Islan

Our trusty companions

From the Driftwood Inn:

  • It's a 5-minute walk, or a 2-minute bike ride to the beach
  • The Sanibel Lighthouse is a 15-minute bike ride
  • Wickies Lighthouse Restaurant and Tuttle's Seahorse Shell Shop are just a 12-minute bike ride
  • The Lighthouse Cafe is just an easy 5-minute bike ride as is Traders Restaurant
  • Sanibel Island Beach Resort's restaurant and beach-front pool bar are just a 3-minute walk

Final Thoughts

We were thrilled with our stay at The Driftwood Inn - Sanibel Island.

The cottages are comfortable, spacious, and clean, and they are relatively secluded which provides a degree of privacy. 

The location puts it in close proximity to the beach, restaurants, and shopping, and they have all the amenities we could want and more. 

It's not a beach-front property, so if you're wanting views of the gulf from your room, you won't get that at the Driftwood.  It is not a resort, so if you're wanting that resort type of experience, you won't get that either.

What it does provide is a charming "Old Florida" beach cottage feel that will give you memories to treasure for a lifetime!

Don't wait!  Reserve your cottage at The Driftwood Inn today.

This article was sponsored, in part, by The Driftwood Inn.

Is Sanibel Island Open? (Is it okay to visit after Ian?)

Is Sanibel Island Open? (Is it okay to visit after Ian?)

NOTE: This post was written in January of 2023. For an updated post written in August of 2024, see Sanibel and Captiva Today: Two Years After Ian

Is Sanibel Island open to the public after Hurricane Ian?

Are visitors welcome on Sanibel Island yet?

Is Sanibel ready for tourists?

Do the residents and businesses even want you there?

There are so many conflicting messages out there about this issue...if you are a member of any Sanibel Facebook group, you know exactly what I'm talking about...

People love Sanibel and want to come support it, but they are confused and conflicted about whether or not they should visit.

Not to mention, is the bridge to Sanibel open?
Are Sanibel Island beaches open? 

 We had many of these questions ourselves, so we decided to go visit for the day and get the real story from Sanibel residents and business owners themselves.

Sanibel causeway open after Ian

Sanibel Causeway on January 19, 2023

What we came to understand very quickly was that there is an important point to be made by those who say it is too soon to visit.  

We have to admit that such a perspective was one that we couldn't fully appreciate until we saw the devastation with our own eyes and heard firsthand from those living and working on the island.  

And yet, for those who love Sanibel and want to be a part of the recovery, we came away convinced more than ever that one of the best things anyone can do to help is to visit and support the restaurants and businesses that are working hard to survive.  

Their future depends on the patronage of those who do not live there.  

Here is what we learned when we visited the island in mid-January for the first time since the hurricane.

Is Sanibel Island Open to Visitors?

Now we get to the million dollar question...should you visit Sanibel yet after all the horrific devastation of Hurricane Ian? Are you even welcome there?

The answer is "It Depends." 

It depends on what your purpose is, and what your expectations are.

Sanibel Island east end hurricane ian damage house collapse

Collapsed home on the east end of Sanibel after Ian

What is your Purpose for visiting Sanibel after Ian?

We spoke with residents on our visit who said that it was very uncomfortable seeing all the vacationers leisurely riding their bicycles by their stuff.

They had just gone through the most horrific experience of their lives.

Now their years of memories and personal belongings are just heaped up in debris piles in front of what is left of their homes for vacationers to gawk at.

Sunset Grill Santiva Fl Ian

Sunset Grill Santiva

Now, we don't really think those cyclists we observed while we were on the island were intentionally gawking or rummaging through residents' personal belongings piled up beside the streets, but we can certainly understand how it could feel incredibly insensitive at best and, at worst, like a very personal violation and unwelcomed intrusion.  

If your purpose is strictly for recreational pleasure, then we would recommend waiting a few more months.  

For now, we can recommend Sanibel and Captiva for day-trips, but not family vacations.

Mad Hatter Restaurant Sanibel

Mad Hatter Restaurant (swept to a different location)

Sanibel Businesses Need and Want Your Support!

On the other hand, (a very big and strong other hand) if you love Sanibel and want to come support the businesses and restaurants that are trying to recover and rebuild, then you are most welcome and wanted! (If you are thoughtful and caring enough to even be reading this, then I am sure that THIS is the camp you are in!)

Upon arriving, we headed to the east end to the entrance of Lighthouse Park which was inaccessible. 

We knew what to expect.  We had already observed what Hurricane Ian did to parts of Marco Island, parts of Naples, and especially Ft. Myers Beach.  So, we were not surprised by what we saw as we crossed over the causeway bridge and made the familiar left turn onto Periwinkle.   

We experienced first-hand (and it only makes sense) that the more familiar you are with a place, the bigger the emotional impact when that place is suddenly changed; marred, defaced, and injured.  

Lazy Flamingo, Sanitva after Ian

It was a sobering and silent drive to the marina (which looked to be in great shape by the way) and then on to the barricades at the entrance of Lighthouse Park.  

Along the way, we slowed down as we passed our traditional on-island breakfast stop, the Lighthouse Cafe.  "Sad" just seems like too small a word.

On our drive west, we stopped in at Tutti Pazzi for lunch.  We had actually not been there since it was Matzaluna's.   (Tutti Pazzi is in the spot where Matzaluna's used to be, 1200 Periwinkle Way.)

From the outside, everything looked great. It had, no doubt, benefited from its elevated perch.

Tutti Pazzi restaurant open on Sanibel

Tutti Pazzi Sanibel is Open

As we sat down at the bar, we were comforted by the familiar space that we had frequented so many times over the years.    

While the space inside and the bar were familiar, the atmosphere was quite different from when it was Matzaluna.  

The quirkiness of Matzaluna's decor has given way to a much brighter, open, and cleaner-looking setting.  

Tutti Pazzi Sanibel

There were a dozen or so guests already there when we arrived.  Some were workers involved in the recovery efforts on lunch break, but most were either residents or other visitors like us.

We could not have felt more welcome.  We could not have been made to feel more comfortable. We could not have been treated more kindly.

We struck up a conversation with the guys behind the bar and we mentioned that we were a little apprehensive about coming and wondered if they were aware of the controversy surrounding this topic that's being bantered about on social media.  

It turned out that one of the guys behind the bar was Pasquale Russo. Pasquale and his wife Leanna are owners of Tutti Pazzi and they quickly put us at ease.

They made it crystal clear that they were happy to see us and that visitors are more than welcome.

Plus, their Carne Mi Amore pizza was amazing!  

and the bread and olive oil with whole olives is a delightful new spin on an old standard 

Pasquale encountered some skepticism over why he wanted to even open the restaurant so soon after Ian, when there certainly would not be enough customers to justify the cost of doing business.

There is no doubt, that such skepticism was sensible, but he felt the need to open and to provide a place for the residents to gather.  The residents of Sanibel NEEDED a place to gather as neighbors once again.

After all they've been through, a place to relax, laugh, catch up and enjoy being together was so important.

Pasquale and Leanna have Tutti Pazzi ready and open for business. And they wanted us to know that the restaurants and shops on Sanibel need more than the support of residents in order to survive.

They all depend on tourists to stay in business.

That means YOU!

So many people have lost their jobs as well, and the more business Sanibel restaurants and shops get, the more people can get back to work to support their families.

There was a lot of optimism there at Tutti Pazzi.  We heard stories of how resilient the Sanibel community is and how they they've been sharing equipment, tools, and resources to help one another with the restoration process.

What a beautiful thing!

Accommodations Available on Sanibel/Captiva

If you're looking for a place to stay, 'Tween Waters is open and looks to be in very good shape from what we were able to observe of the exterior.  

The pool bar and cafe is open and serving guests and Old Captiva House is open for dinner.

Just be aware that at the present time there is no internet service available at Tween Waters, but our cell phone service was very reliable the entire time we were on the island.

Tween waters sanibel pool open

A final recommendation if you go

Our last stop before heading back home was at our old favorite, Traders.  And quite honestly, as best we can tell, Traders is already back in full swing.

Traders restaurant open  after ian

Trader's Restaurant on Sanibel open after Ian

We arrived at twilight and the parking lot was full as were the seats at the bar, but thankfully we were able to squeeze in at a small table near the band.

The service was great.  The food was great.  The live music was great.  Everything was great!

Tips for Visiting Sanibel Island after Ian

1. Be Respectful

Consider the Golden Rule when visiting, and treat the residents with how you would want to be treated if you were in their position.  Try to stay out of the way of construction workers and recovery efforts. 

The safest place to hang out is Periwinkle Drive, where the businesses are very happy and grateful to see you.

2. Be Patient (Have realistic expectations)

If you plan a visit to Sanibel, you will need to have realistic expectations. As  Pasquale said, "Please be patient."  The island is not the same as it used to be. 

Destruction

We were shocked at the devastation on Sanibel and Captiva. So many places in rubble. It looks like a bomb went off. There are still debris piles lining the streets.

So in a word, it is very sad.

So be prepared for that (if one can ever be prepared to see something so tragic.) 

Lazy Flamingo Santa

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The Beach

The beach itself is totally different since Ian. Much of it has eroded. There are many gullies/inlets now cutting through. 

But for us beach lovers, it is still beautiful, and since there are so few tourists on the beach, there are many more shells!

Sand Dollar beach access boardwalk

The Sand Dollar Beach Resort beach access boardwalk (what is left of it)

Vegetation

If you are expecting lush and green vegetation for your tropical vacation, then you are going to be disappointed. The vegetation of Sanibel got a horrific blow. Many palm trees are dead. Much of the plant life is gone. The majority is brown.  And there is still a lot of debris in the trees and vegetation. It is not pretty.

But it gets better every day. It is dry season, after all, and much of the brown will turn to gorgeous green once the rainy season begins this summer.

Amenities

If you are expecting all your favorite resorts, restaurants, shops, and biking paths, you will most definitely be disappointed. It is not the full-service resort town it once was. 

It will be many months and years for many places to reopen, and sadly, many are closed permanently. It may be hard to find a condo or resort to rent, if you are planning to go for vacation.  Currently, 'Tween Waters is the only full-service resort that is open to visitors.

Most of the biking paths are still not cleared of debris, though with time, they will return as beautiful as ever.

Grocery Stores

Jerry's Foods is open (see How is Jerry’s Foods Grocery Store after Hurricane Ian?) but Bailey's was hit hard by the storm surge. It will have to be demolished and rebuilt.

But if you realize all of this and have realistic expectations, and just love the still-beautiful islands of Sanibel and Captiva and want to help support them so they can recover and rebuild, then please do!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Causeway Bridge to Sanibel Open?

The Sanibel Causeway and bridge is open. It opened to the public on January 2, 2023.

Are Sanibel Island Beaches Open?

Although the Sanibel Island beaches are technically "open," according to Sanibel Mayor Holly Smith, there are very few public beach parking lots open.

Many of the beach entrances are blocked off with fencing so that it is difficult to even get to the beach unless you own a condo or home on the beach.

Lighthouse Beach Park access closed after Ian

Sanibel Lighthouse Park closed

Sanibel Island Lighthouse Fishing Pier Beach closed after Ian

To see all the open beaches and beaches opening soon, along with their scheduled opening dates, see our post Are Sanibel Island Beaches Open?

Is Sanibel Fishing Pier Open?

The Sanibel Fishing Pier is not open after the damage from Hurricane Ian. There is currently no scheduled opening date, but I'll keep you updated when I hear of one!

Photo of Hurricane Ian damage to the Sanibel Fishing Pier
Sanibel fishing pier ian damage

Sanibel Fishing Pier Photo credit: @SanibelStar

What is Open on Sanibel and Captiva?

Check out our guide on all the accommodations, businesses, shops, services, activities, and restaurants on Sanibel that have reopened: What is Open on Sanibel?

What Restaurants on Sanibel and Captiva are Open?

We are keeping an updated list of all the open Sanibel & Captiva restaurants that would love your patronage. You can see it here:  What Restaurants are Open on Sanibel after Hurricane Ian?

We actually referred to our own list when we went to visit!

Support Sanibel Businesses through Online Shopping!

Another great way to support the Sanibel shops, artists, and restaurants is to buy through their online shops! Many of these are not open yet in their brick-and-mortar location, so online sales will definitely help them recover and rebuild so they can open in the not-too-distant future!

You can check out the online shopping directory at Sanibel Island Online Shopping Directory (after Hurricane Ian)

Sanibel beautiful strong loved shirt
Are Sanibel Island Beaches Open?

Are Sanibel Island Beaches Open?

Open Sanibel Public Beaches

March 6, 2023 UPDATE!!! Sanibel public beaches & parking lots have started opening! 
The following Sanibel beaches are now OPEN!

  • Tarpon Bay Road Beach. $5 per hour for public parking. There are 76 parking spaces.
  • Blind Pass Beach Park. $5 per hour for parking. There are 23 general parking spaces.
  • Bowman's Beach Park. $5 per hour for parking. 220 parking spaces.
  • Blind Pass Beach. $5 per hour parking. 29 parking spaces.
  • Gulfside City Park. $5 per hour parking. 46 parking spaces.

Open Sanibel Public Beaches as of March 6, 2023

Sanibel Island was devastated by Hurricane Ian that swept through with its record-high storm surge that submerged the beautiful sub-tropical island.

The beaches were not left unscathed, as they were left with gullies, erosion, and debris, but they are slowly recovering and will be opening to visitors soon!

I don't know about you, but if you are a Sanibel lover like I am, you can't wait to be able to spend a relaxing day on one of the beautiful Sanibel beaches once again!

The great news is that the Sanibel beaches ARE scheduled to start opening soon!

Here is the list of Sanibel beaches, along with their scheduled opening dates.

Lighthouse Beach Park access closed after Ian

Scheduled Sanibel Public Beach Openings

Here are the scheduled openings of the Sanibel public beach parking lots. I don't know about you, but I can't wait!

  • Tarpon Bay Beach - February, 2023 (now open)
  • Blind Pass Beach - February, 2023 (now open)
  • Gulfside City Park - March, 2023 (now open)
  • Bowman's Beach - mid-March, 2023 (now open)
  • Boat Ramp - mid-March/April, 2023 (now open)
  • Lighthouse Beach Park - not scheduled
  • Turner Beach, Captiva - not scheduled

Schedule of Restricted Sanibel Beach Access Openings

This is the expected schedule of restricted beach access openings for residents and pass holders with parking permits. Beach parking permits go on sale Thursday, January 19 for residents/property owners and January 31 for non-residents.

Is the Sanibel Fishing Pier Open?

The Sanibel Fishing Pier is not open after the Hurricane Ian damage. There is currently no scheduled opening date, but I'll keep you updated when I hear of one!

Photo of the Sanibel Fishing Pier after Ian

Is Anything Open on Sanibel Island?

Yes, there are many businesses, shops, services, activities, accommodations, and restaurants on Sanibel & Captiva that have reopened since Ian.
Check out our post for the full list: What is Open on Sanibel?

Open Restaurants on Sanibel and Captiva

We are keeping an updated list of all the open Sanibel & Captiva restaurants that would be truly grateful for your business. You can see it here:  What Restaurants are Open on Sanibel after Hurricane Ian?

Help Support Sanibel Recovery Efforts

Sanibel Island is special in our hearts as well as many others, who are heartbroken over the devastation that Hurricane Ian brought this friendly little island in SW Florida.

Living in southwest Florida ourselves, and Sanibel being our "home away from home," we wanted a way to help those impacted by Hurricane Ian to rebuild and come back stronger and more beautiful than ever, so that families can continue to be able to create wonderful lifelong memories in this little slice of paradise.

$5 of every shirt purchased will go towards SW Florida relief efforts at: F.I.S.H. of SanCap and  Sanibel businesses that have been impacted by Hurricane Ian.

Click HERE to purchase. 💜 Thank you!

Sanibel beautiful strong loved shirt
What is Open on Sanibel? (2023)

What is Open on Sanibel? (2023)

Sanibel and Captiva Islands got hit hard by Hurricane Ian, but they are slowly rebuilding and recovering. You may want to support Sanibel and its recovery by coming for a visit, but are not sure what is even open yet!

Check out this guide to see what activities, shops, services, businesses, and restaurants are open on Sanibel and Captiva!

Things to Do on Sanibel & Captiva

sanibel things to do part 2 march 2023

Retail Shops Open on Sanibel & Captiva

Addition: Ace Hardware on Sanibel is now open!

Accomodations Open on Sanibel

Services Open on Sanibel & Captiva

Restaurants Open On Sanibel

Restaurants Open on Captiva

Full Directory of the Open Restaurants on Sanibel & Captiva

For a full, detailed list of all the open Sanibel & Captiva restaurants that would love your patronage, see my post here:  What Restaurants are Open on Sanibel after Hurricane Ian?

Open Beaches on Sanibel

To see all the open beaches and beaches opening soon, along with their scheduled opening dates, see our post Are Sanibel Island Beaches Open?

Is Sanibel Ready for Visitors?

Is Sanibel open and ready for tourists yet? Should you plan a visit or wait? Check out my post Is Sanibel Island Open? (Is it okay to visit after Ian?)

Support Sanibel Businesses through Online Shopping!

Another great way to support the Sanibel shops, artists, and restaurants is to buy through their online shops! Many of these are not open yet in their brick-and-mortar location, so online sales will definitely help them recover and rebuild so they can open in the not-too-distant future!

You can check out the online shopping directory at Sanibel Island Online Shopping Directory (after Hurricane Ian)

Help Support Sanibel Recovery Efforts

Sanibel Island is special in our hearts as well as many others, who are heartbroken over the devastation that Hurricane Ian brought this friendly little island in SW Florida.

Living in southwest Florida ourselves, and Sanibel being our "home away from home," we wanted a way to help those impacted by Hurricane Ian to rebuild and come back stronger and more beautiful than ever, so that families can continue to be able to create wonderful lifelong memories in this little slice of paradise.

$5 of every shirt purchased will go towards SW Florida relief efforts at: F.I.S.H. of SanCap and  Sanibel businesses that have been impacted by Hurricane Ian.

Click HERE to purchase. 💜 Thank you!

Sanibel beautiful strong loved shirt
Surviving Hurricane Ian (Sanibel Survivor Story)

Surviving Hurricane Ian (Sanibel Survivor Story)

The following first-hand account was taken from the personal Facebook page of Angelika Geerlof, a resident of Sanibel Island, Florida, who survived the terrifying winds and catastrophic storm surge of Hurricane Ian that devastated the island on September 28, 2022.

I nearly drowned three times.

It was the most terrifying experience of my life.

Thankfully, we are alive. I have not had phone service until now. Therefore, I was unable to touch base with anyone. I was unable to call, text, message, or post. (To all my friends who have been messaging me, calling me, and posting on Facebook, thank you so much for your care and concern.)

To say that this was one of the most horrific experiences of my life is an understatement.

We could have drowned in our own home. This was my street yesterday while Hurricane Ian was battering us.

Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof

 It was hours of relentless wind, rain, branches, and peoples’ belongings flying through the street.

The water level in our home rose from ankles, to knees, to waist, within half an hour. To leave the house required a split-second decision. 

Sanibel Survivor hurricane Ian Angelika Geerlof

At first, we could not get out of our house. Finally, we were able to pry open the glass doors and get out just in time.

My son was able to pull and lift the lanai door; the surge force caused the door to fall on him. Thankfully, he was not hurt, and this is how we were able to escape our home just in time.

We intended to go to a neighbor’s house which was diagonally across the street, but the current was too strong and that was impossible. 

We quickly decided to go across the street, to another neighbor's home. They had left the island and were gracious enough to offer their home to us. This was also impossible. 

Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof

We knew we had another safe haven up the road, so we started walking. Soon the water became too deep and we started swimming.

Within a few minutes we were able to reach our neighbors property. My son Kris was on the right side, clinging from one palm tree from the another with my puppy Scruffy in his arms and a backpack on his back.  With branches pounding into his back and arms, he eventually had to release the backpack in order to save Scruffy and himself from drowning.

Meanwhile, the current had already taken me past the neighbor’s house and I grabbed onto Seagrape branches. With my Bodhi, my other puppy, in my left arm, and my cell phone in a plastic bag in my mouth, and a bag over my shoulder, I made my way towards the house branch by branch - fighting the current. 

Sanibel dog and puppy Ian survivors

Sanibel doggie survivors Scruffy & Bodhi

It turned out I had not gotten very far and was actually only heading towards a different neighbor’s house.

 The surge kept taking me back to the house on the left of the house that was the intended safe haven.

No matter how much footage I thought I had gained, the surge kept taking me back to the house on the left. The surge was far stronger than I, that’s why I took so long to get to safety .

The branches that were tangled around my legs kept pulling me under with every powerful wave of the surge washing over me.

It was there that the three times occurred where I certainly thought I was going to drown with my Bodhi in my arms.

Sanibel dog survivors

Sanibel doggie survivors

Scruffy & Bodhi

Finally, after swallowing lots of gulf water, and sore arm and legs, I made my way through more branches and got tangled with my legs in some that were caught between the Seagrape trees. 

I finally was able to swim toward my neighbor's lanai, which is on the second floor, yet it was even with the water level. 

My neighbor punched a hole through the screen and rescued Bodhi, and I managed to swim to the stairs.

 Kristopher was still fighting to get from one palm tree to the next and my neighbor then punched a hole on the other side of the lanai and saved Scruffy, while Kris swam to the stairs. 

sanibel dog survivors

 Bodhi & Scruffy, Sanibel doggie survivors with Angelika's daughter Brianna pre-Hurricane Ian

We both thank God that we are alive. It was extremely draining and frightening.

 To lose things in the hurricane pales to the actual experience of struggling and being trapped in the surge. 😥

We are now in a shelter in Estero planning our next move in life.We received help from a Sanibel family that took us and six other people to the Port Sanibel Marina.

Then another kind family drove us to various hotels, that had no vacancies, and finally to the shelter.

To see so much devastation and the destroyed causeway is a lot to process.

My home, like countless others is destroyed with little or nothing to salvage.

I pray with all my heart and soul that all my other friends are safe and well.

I will now check all my various text messages and voicemails. Again… thank you all with love. }

Hurricane Ian Storm Surge Damage to my Sanibel Home

Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof
Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof
Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof
Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof
Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof
Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof

Lasting Effects from the Trauma of Hurricane Ian

Update from Angelika on November 30 2022:

We are very fortunate to be staying at a neighbors house, only two doors down from where we used to live. Our house has been completely emptied, gutted, and will most likely be torn down.

I lived there for 11 years. It’s been very distressing. 

I am blessed to be alive as are my son and doggies, but it’s still very very heart wrenching.

Sanibel survivor story Angelika Geerlof

It was the most terrifying experience in our lives, my son Kris and I both still have nightmares, and our pups will not leave our sides. 

 I’m usually hanging from the branches, at the brink of drowning, with Bodhi looking up at me with fear in his little eyes, or standing in my home, helplessly watching belongings begin to float around and the cold water forcefully surrounding me as the water level rises.

I remember trying to open doors and windows to escape,  but being trapped by the surge surrounding the house.

Often l wake up bathed in perspiration and in tears.

Angelika Geerlof and son Kris after surviving Hurricane Ian

Angelika and Kris with Bodhi & Scruffy 

About Angelika Geerlof

Angelika is a Sanibel survivor and artist. Her photography of Sanibel wildlife is beautiful and stunning.

Roseate Spoonbills Angelika Geerlof

Roseate Spoonbills photograph by Angelika Geerlof

Help Support Angelika's Recovery from Ian

Along with her home, most of Angelika's artwork was destroyed from Ian's storm surge, but thanks to supporters and friends, she has been able to partially replenish her supply of products that feature her stunning photography of the beautiful wildlife of Sanibel.

You also can help support her recovery by making a purchase of one of her beautiful pieces of art. 

Below are just a few of the items she has available. You can place on order by messaging her on her Sanibel Moodscapes Facebook page HERE or her website HERE.

"After the Storm" Coffee Table Book

Angelika compiled her own photographs of the aftermath of Hurricane Ian and put them in this beautiful coffee table book. 

After the Storm Angelika Geerlof Hurricane Ian aftermath

2024 Sanibel Island Calendar

Sanibel calendar 2024
2023 sanibel calendar osprey
dolphin sanibel calendar
sanibel 2023 calendar pelican

"Signs of Sanibel"  Totebag

I love this "Signs of Sanibel" tote bag, created from Angelika's photographs of signs found on the island after Ian.

To see more signs of Sanibel, check out my post Signs of HOPE on Sanibel Island after Hurricane Ian (in Photos)

Sanibel signs after Ian Angelika Geerlof tote bag
tote bag signs of sanibel

Sanibel Island Mousepads

sanibel island wildlife mousepads
sanibel island mousepads spoonbill

Sanibel Photography Coffee Table Books

Sanibel island coffee table books

Sanibel Canvas Wall Art

Any of Angelika's photographs can be made into canvas wall art in the size of your choice. What a lovely way to decorate your home, with memories of beautiful Sanibel Island!

sanibel lighthouse canvas wall art

Sanibel lighthouse on canvas

See More of Angelika's Work 

You can see more of Angelika's work on her Sanibel Moodscapes Facebook page HERE where you can message her to order, and her website HERE.

Angelika Geerlof Sanibel photographer

Angelika Geerlof with her Roseate Spoonbill photo on canvas